Three Thousand Years on the Frontier Book VI: The Mountaineers

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One can get to the transfer camps Maida-Adyr and At-Jailyau by car from Karakol town former name of town was Prjevalsk which is situated km and km respectively by the mountain road over Chon-Ashu pass 3, m Trekking path to the Southern and Northern Inylchek glaciers starts at the At-Jailyau camp and goes up to the Merzbacher lake on the geographical left side of the Southern Inylchek glacier at the crossing of the Southern and Northern Inylchek valleys.

The path from At-Jailyau river to the Shokalski glacier goes along the left side of valley if going upwards then along the right side and takes 2 days. From the glade two different trails go to the Northern and Southern Inylchek. In order to get to the upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek one should take the trail heading along the left side up to the Shokalskyi glacier the first southern tributary of the Southern Inylchek glacier after Merzbacher glade going up to the middle of the glacier along the central moraine up to Zvezdochka glacier. There is number of base camps in the area for climbing upper reaches of Southern Inylchek, Zvezdochka, Semenovskii and Demchenko glaciers as well as Pobeda and Khan-Tengri peaks.

Usually it takes about 2 days to get from Merzbacher glade to Zvezdochka glacier. In order to get to the Northern Inylchek one should traverse the Southern Inylchek glacier to the northwest towards peak Bronenosez at the west end of Tengri-Tag ridge. The very edge of the ridge ends with three passes. To get to the Northern Inylchek glacier one can through the middle pass only because the junction of Northern and Southern Inylchek canyons is locked by Merzbacher lake which is impassable by its steep sides. Climbing opportunities.

Both trails have avalanche hazards. However, one can minimize the hazard on Semenovskyi glacier by passing dangerous areas of crevasses and seracs between 3 am and 6 am, because usually snow and ice avalanches here are possible after the sun touches the southeast wall of Chapaev peak — the origin of avalanches. Pobeda peak is often climbed through the Western Pobeda peak which also has another name of Vaja Pshavela. Description of the most popular climbing itineraries to Pobeda and Khan-Tengri peaks as well as planning recommendations is attached.

Most of the climbers come to the area especially for Khan-Tengri and Pobeda peaks. However, there are a lot of excellent summits below 7, m which will satisfy different climbing tastes. Most of the routes to the summits over 6, m are snow-ice but there are some rock walls, like northwest wall of peak Pogrebezkii. All peaks over 6, m are located eastward of peak Erkindik 6, m former Kirov peak in Kokshaaltoo range, eastward of peak Gorkogo 6, m in Tengri-Tag range, in the range Meridional from peak Plato 6, m in north to peak of Voennih Topografov Military Topographers in south.

Most of the summits over 6, m have been climbed however since there is no information about ascents to some of them we consider those virgin. For example, according to P. Solomatin there is a virgin summit of 6, m between peaks Voennih Topografov and Rapasova.

Traversing Pobeda and Khan-Tengri peaks the group by V. Khrichatov passed it and observed on the right. According to the existing resources, between Demchenko and Drujba glaciers in the western spur of Meridional ridge there are four 6, meter summits from peak Otkrityi [Discoveries] 5, m and peak Moris Torez 6,m.

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Two summits of those four were climbed. These are peak Edelweiss 6, m and peak Chokhan Valihanov 6,m. Another spur of Meridional ridge has two virgin summits as well in the area of Drujba and Nagel glaciers between peak Pogrebezkogo 6, m and peak Drujba 6,m.

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These several above are potential summits for first ascent. As for already climbed summits there are many opportunities for the new routes of ascents. Summits between 5, m and 6, m. This is laborious task for research. Search and rescue, supply. S everal travel agencies run base camps in the described area. As the rule they organize one joint rescue team for the region. There is regular communication between camps to coordinate rescue works if needed. The companies provide their customers with all necessary services. All camps are equipped with satellite and radio connection for long-distance calls and ultrashort radio connection between camps and climbers on the routes.

This region is situated in the border area and special permit is required. It includes Kaindy and Terekty glaciers. The average altitude of summits is up to 6, m. There is big amount of unclimbed peaks in the area.

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The routes are mostly combined, ice-snow and snow itineraries with elevation of 1,m — 1,m. The first mountaineering expeditions were here in The region can be reached both by helicopter and by car and porters.


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It takes 45 minutes to fly from Maida-Adyr camp. The car route consists of several legs: first km by asphalt road from Karakol town to Inylchek village over Chon-Ashu pass and further about 10 km by rough mountain road in Kaindy valley and then 20 km on natural terrain by the off-road vehicle. To get to the upper reaches of the glacier from the last moraine of Kaindy glacier which is the furthest point to where a vehicle can go it takes about two days to hike.

There is no porter service available in the area and if needed porters have to be hired and transported from Karakol town. In fact there is no information about climbing in the area. Some summits to the south of Mushketov glacier and upper reaches of Semenov glacier were climbed from Bayankol and Northern Inylchek glaciers however this information is not reliable.

The region can be accessed by off-road vehicle from Karakol town over Chon-Ashu pass.

First the road goes along Ottuk river until it inflows into Sarydjaz river and then follows its right bank up to frontier post Echkilitash. By the confluence of Tuz and Sarydjaz rivers there is a car bridge to the left bank of Sarydjaz river. Further the natural terrain road goes on the left bank up to the river Adyrtor and then along it in the direction of Mushketov glacier.

There are a lot of slope swamps, bogs and gullies in the area. Semenov glacier can be reached on both left and right banks of Sarydjaz river. Horses can be rented from herdsmen who bring cattle up to the area for summer period. It stretches along the southern shore of the Issyk-Kul lake for almost km in latitudinal strike from its western edge to the border with Kazakhstan in east. Canyons Karakol, Jetyoguz and Chon-Kyzylsuu are very popular among climbers. Other canyons are whether rarely visited by mountaineers or not visited at all.

There is reasonable access by road to almost all canyons of the northern part of the range and many of the southern slopes. The highway goes along northern slopes. The territory of the range is not in the border area and no special permits are required. Some of the most popular canyons among climbers are Karakol and Jety-Oguz. The highest peaks, the most interesting itineraries and the highest walls of Terskey Ala-Too range are located here. The highest peaks are Jigit 5,m , Karakolskyi 5,m and Oguz-Bashi 5,m.

More than routes have been developed here varying from the easiest to the very difficult ones. Mostly routes are rocky or combined, however ice-snow or snow routes are not frequently found.

Yuhin Peak (5130 m.)

Elevation is 1, m. In the upper reaches of canyons routes are mostly combined and in the middle area are mostly rocky. Both canyons are located to the south of eastern edge of Issik-Kul lake on the northern slopes of Terskei Ala-Too range. The climate of the region is considerably milder then of the Central Tien-Shan much depending on true altitudes and proximity to the lake Issik-Kul.

Annual precipitation is quite heavy up to millimeters. It mostly falls in the beginning of summer, however snow and thunder storms are common for July and August as well. The weather is more settled in September but autumn is much colder in mountains than summer. The best time for climbing is July — September.

Lenin Peak (7134 m.)

Climbing history. The records of first ascents date back to and were done by the group under Grechishkin, who was a dentist from Karakol town.

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After war the region became popular among climbers from all over the Soviet Union because of the easy access and many different opportunities for expeditions. Lots of different routes were developed during championships of various kinds. Well-known mountaineering camp Ala-Too was in operation here in ss. Nowadays, due to the easy access and variety of routes of different grades many climbing teams from Russia come here for training, their rating and skill improvement. There is convenient access by road from Karakol town. The distance from the town to the end of the road in Jety-Oguz canyon is 80 km.

To get to the starting point for climbing one should drive along the road on the southern shore of the lake then take turn to the mountains in Pokrovka village, which goes up to the river Tilety Zapadnaya western — right tributary of Jetyoguz river. Horses or porters can be used to transport loads from the end of the road to the base camps. Porters can be hired in Karakol and horses can be rented in the gorge from local people. The distance from Karakl town to the end of the road in Karakol gorge at the river Telety Vostochnyi eastern is 18 km. Horses or porters can be hired.

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